Of religious groups and their contribution to the noise level in Ghana

So, what in your opinion is the nosiest religious group in Ghana? I am quite certain that whatever response anyone would have to this question would largely depend on their previous or current experiences and where they live or have lived. On my part, I started pondering over this question about a couple of months ago when I thought one sect of a particular religious group was becoming too notorious in Accra for its noise levels. However, a field trip I took to the Central Region at the beginning of this week did not only yield scientific data but also taught me an important lesson about how different religious groups contribute to the noise levels in this country.

It all began when I and my colleagues arrived at our favourite hotel in Agona Swedru on the evening of Tuesday, only to learn they had no vacancies. On making some few enquiries, we were directed to another hotel which seemed good enough. After all, we were only going to lodge there for less than nine hours, so what was the big deal about being fussy? However, in the early hours of Wednesday, around 3:45am to be precise, a loud sound which happened to be a Muslim call to prayer broke the still of the dawn and sent me springing out of my bed in absolute confusion.  Having gone to bed really late the previous night, it took a while for me to figure out what the disturbance was all about. The interesting thing about it was that, unlike all others I have ever heard, this one did not seem to be coming from a fixed loudspeaker at the mosque. Rather, the sound got closer by the second, almost as if it was being administered into a megaphone while the person doing the administration walked through the community. After going on for five minutes, it came to an abrupt end. In my ignorance, I thought it was all over; hence I hopped into bed to get some more sleep but hardly had I tucked myself in than the noise began again, sounding even closer and louder than before. Well, at that point I realised that getting more sleep was simply out of the question.  

Until that unpleasant experience, I had been considering some branches of the charismatic Christian sect as fore runners (and perhaps, the only contenders) for the title of “the noisiest religious group in the country”. Lord knows, they have done more than enough to earn that title. Unfortunately for most people in Accra especially, majority of the charismatic Christian churches which are well-known for organising numerous all-night prayer services, are located within residential areas. But that would not have been much of an issue if members of this sect did not have a particular penchant for using loudspeakers (which are usually tuned to the loudest volumes). Most branches of this sect are also known for clapping whilst praying and drumming in the loudest possible way. Residents who are unfortunate enough to find themselves in such neighbourhoods only have to endure in silence or risk the option of being accused of witchcraft if they dare complain about the noise level to the churches.

It is therefore not surprising that the most peaceful time of the year in Accra is the one month period that precedes the Ga Homowo Festival. During that period, the Ga Traditional Council imposes a ban on loud noise. Well, thank God for that! I only wish The Council would consider extending the ban indefinitely. 

My day at the passport application centre in Accra

I personally dread going to the passport application centre (PAC) in Accra but when old passports get expired or run out of fresh pages, one cannot help but to present one’s self at that dreadful place. Besides, since early last year, the PAC began issuing biometric passports to replace the old type. Though the old and new passports will be running concurrently until 2015, the biometric passports will completely take over from then onwards. Hence, it was under such circumstances that I found myself at the passport application centre in Accra once again.

Prior to my visit, I did a background check on the current procedure for renewing/applying for a Ghanaian passport. On the website of the Ghana Immigration Service, i read the five steps they had outlined on how to acquire a Ghanaian passport. I noticed on their website that the rate for the passport application forms has considerably increased. One could either opt for an express service by purchasing the 100 Gh cedis form or regular service by going for a 50 Gh cedis form.  These forms are available at three main banks: Ecobank, Ghana Commercial Bank and the National Investment Bank.  I went for a regular service form from Ecobank, filled it, attached my old passport and then prepared myself mentally for the ordeal ahead.

Having heard stories about how early queuing begins at the passport office; I dared myself to live up to the challenge.  I arrived at the centre, which is now located behind the burnt-down former Ministry of Foreign Affairs at 4:45 am. To my surprise, people had already started queuing behind the main gate of the PAC. There were actually two queues;  one for people who were born in the Brong-Ahafo Region and the other for those born in the Greater Accra Region.  I was much impressed when I found out that people who showed up with children as well as the elderly were being asked to occupy the front positions in the queues. A third queue, consisting of people who were there to collect their passports, started forming around 6:00am. At 6:20am, an official from the passport office came out and checked our application forms and the supporting documents. He informed applicants, who had attached their birth certificates as evidence of citizenship, that the passport office no longer accepted the old type of birth certificates. Hence, anyone who had one of those should go for the new type which has a greenish background. He then proceeded to give them the contact number for someone who could help facilitate the acquisition of these new types of birth certificates.

The passport application forms, together with their supporting documents, were eventually collected from some of us (about the first 70 people in the queue) at around 6:45am; and at 7:02am, the gates were opened for those of us whose forms had been collected, as well as those who were there for their passports collection, to enter the yard.  The first thing I noticed on entering the yard was chairs which had been arranged under canopies but strangely enough, almost all the seats were already occupied. I am still uncertain about how exactly all those people managed to enter the yard ahead of those of us who had been queuing for hours. A canopy facing the side of the main building was reserved for people who were there for the collection of their passports whilst a greater number of canopies and seats which faced the main entrance to the building were reserved for people who were there to submit their application forms. Two officials sat facing this latter group of people, under a smaller canopy. These officials had the forms which had been collected from us but instead of processing and passing them on, they rather continued receiving more applications forms from people who had somehow evaded the queue outside and had managed to get security to allow them into the yard. I also noticed that some of these non-queuing people who were allowed by security into the yard actually walked directly into the main building to transact whatever business brought them there. We had no choice but to watch what was happening and wait.

At 9:40am, the officials (under the canopy outside) started going through the application forms in batches and called people out to fill certain portions of the forms well, verify some information or provide proof of their occupation.  After this verification, each batch of the forms was taken into the main building, apparently for the information to be entered into their database. Ironically, the loud noise from a nearby lorry station, where someone was busily howling into a megaphone for passengers to Sogakope and Aflao, could be heard much clearer than what the officials were trying to tell us. Well, I was eventually called at 10:38am to provide proof of my occupation and continued waiting for the next stage of the process. At 12:10pm, I was called again, given my old passport and asked to enter the main building for my passport photograph, fingerprints and electronic signature to be taken.  But I had to wait in there for another 32 minutes before it got to my turn. Afterwards, I was asked to check if the information they had entered about me was correct. I was then handed a slip bearing my details which also stated that my passport was going to be ready in three weeks. As I walked out of the PAC, I wished people did not have to spend that amount of time there.

Though the officials may be doing their best under the given circumstances, I still think there are measures which could be put in place to facilitate the process.  I realized for instance, that some people clearly needed assistance in filling the passport application forms. I do not think though that they had to come to the passport application centre to receive this guidance. Rather, the PAC could have representatives at the various banks where the forms are sold to provide people with the needed assistance. It also does not seem right that the forms for first time applicants are processed together with that of people who are just renewing their passports. Moreover, the PAC could have an online system where people who have access to the internet could go and enter their information before submitting their application and supporting documents. That way, the PAC would only have to verify the entered information and proceed to the next step without delay. From what I observed during my visit there, I strongly recommend that the PAC acquires a megaphone. Since applicants have to wait for hours in the yard, it would also be nice if the PAC arranges to provide drinking water for this people as well. Moreover, it would be much appreciated if the PAC could have an online system where people would be able to check the status of their application before going for their passport collection.

An accident under the traffic lights!

Someone jumped the lights and rammed into my moving car in the early hours of Wednesday, as I made my way to work. Until then, it had never dawned on me that an accident could actually occur under a traffic light which is very much in working order. One question I keep asking myself though is why anyone would ignore the traffic light and drive into another vehicle which clearly has the right of way?  But I guess I should be thanking God for surviving the accident in one piece. I was hit in the back passenger door by a four-wheel drive, lost control of my saloon car for a few seconds, and then managed to bring it to a halt without slamming into another vehicle. Everything happened very quickly. For once, I am grateful that I drive an old model which is way stronger than most modern cars. What I’m left to endure are the nasty headaches and the post-traumatic effect. My advice to motorists in Accra: never trust the person driving the other vehicle. The odd thing is that the people responsible for causing the accidents are most often the ones who survive unscarred. God help us.

A Trip to Arusha, Tanzania

In October 2009, I won a travel grant (funded by the Bill & Melinda Gates’ Foundation) to attend a Keystone Meeting in Arusha, Tanzania. In the beginning, I dreaded the whole journey because the mere thought of transiting through Abidjan, Lagos, Addis Ababa and Nairobi before finally arriving at my destination made me nervous. Above all, I had this premonition that I was going to lose my baggage in transit and arrive without any item of clothing! I however, ended up enjoying almost every aspect of the journey; I say “almost” because I neither enjoyed the extensive search the flight attendants conducted on passengers before allowing us to board the Ethiopian Airlines flight from Abidjan to Lagos nor the five-hour wait in Addis Ababa to catch the connecting flight. I must also admit that I really got tired of the chicken lasagne which was served on the Ethiopian Airlines flights.

It was my first time in Eastern Africa and I loved everything about the landscape and the people. I was fascinated by the fact that men from the Maasai tribe could actually braid hair and did that on commercial basis too (I learnt the Maasai tribesmen often sought employment during periods of severe droughts). Coming from an African country where English is almost a compulsory language, I found it interesting that Swahili and Amharic were official languages in Tanzania and Ethiopia respectively. I remember flipping through TV channels for stations which transmitted in English. I was under the impression I was the only foreigner who was having problems with the language until someone else approached me at the Kilimanjaro International Airport to ask if I understood the announcement which was being made. Well, my Swahili really sucked so obviously, I couldn’t be of much help. But I did buy a Swahili book so I at least made an effort to learn the language! Whilst in Arusha, I stayed at the beautiful Naura Springs Hotel where the customer service was truly amazing!

The conference I attended was on “overcoming the crisis of TB and AIDS” and I must say there were very interesting presentations on efforts to develop vaccines for these major diseases of public health importance. I just thought it was unfortunate that only a few of the presentations were given by African delegates. On the side, I made friends, established contacts, enjoyed the Tanzanian/East African cuisine and visited some few places such as the beautiful Kinukamori waterfalls in Marangu (which is about 100km from Arusha) and watched the Kilimanjaro at sunset from a town called Moshi. But I think the greatest attraction of all was the sighting of the peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro before landing at the Kilimanjaro International Airport. I realized most things in that district were called Kilimanjaro: there were the Kilimanjaro Region; Kilimanjaro District; the Kilimanjaro Co-operative Bank; and even the label for the local mineral water was Kilimanjaro.

One thing which struck me during my tour of Northern Tanzania was the way waste was being successfully managed. Even the lorry stations looked clean, something which is really rare in Accra. I however, realized that not many people liked themselves to be photographed by foreigners/tourists. I tried taking a picture of a sign board in Marangu which read: “Ancient Cave 1.85 km”. Unfortunately, two women who were selling banana under the sign board thought I was going to take pictures of them. Anyway, their reaction truly amazed me; they simply took to their heels! That was something I wasn’t used to but I guess they had a good reason for reacting the way they did.

I will draw the curtain on this subject for now but I will definitely have more to say about Tanzania because i will be going back to climb the Kilimanjaro.

Arusha

 

Kinukamori Waterfalls, Marangu

Lorry Station, Moshi

Naura Springs Hotel, Arusha

Ginger Beer

"Ugali"

"Nyamatwoma" and roasted plantain

A view of Arusha from the Naura Springs Hotel

Arusha

Peak of Mt Kilimanjaro

Bargaining in the Ghanaian Context

 

I come from a country where almost everything is an organized mess. In fact, over the years I have watched the futile attempts of some of the mayors of Accra who have tried to restore order in the city with much interest. It is not uncommon for motorists to purchase most of the stuff they need whilst driving or for that matter, without getting out of their cars. How is that possible? Well, not only are the streets filled with hawkers (street venders) but houses which are close to major roads are most often converted into shops as well. But let me not digress from the subject; what I really want to discuss today is how goods and services in this country never seem to have fixed prices and how people who wish to avoid getting cheated really need to arm themselves to the teeth with some excellent bargaining skills.

There are precious few places in this country where goods and services can be purchased at fixed rates. For instance, when one chooses to buy tomatoes from one of the few supermarkets or malls which are usually located in the regional capitals of the country, there is bound to be a fixed price based on the weight of the tomatoes. In much the same way, wholesale shops also have fixed rates. But how many Ghanaians can afford to buy from such places? In effect, majority of the population make their purchases from the local markets and the road side where bargaining skills inevitably become a crucial requirement.

Bargaining begins when the trader surveys his customer and mentions an amount which is about twice the normal price of his ware. However, if the customer happens to be someone who just stepped out of a posh car or looks quite well-to-do, the price of the goods will automatically be increased by three or four folds. On some occasions when the trader really wants to rip the customer off, he would simply ask: “how much will you give me”? Well, be on your guard the moment you hear that question because it signifies you are about to be ripped off, big-time!

The next step is when the customer would start bargaining by mentioning an amount which is about one-third of the given price. The trader would then determine whether that is a good price or not and this would continue until both parties become satisfied with the cost of the goods. Most often, when there is a disagreement on the price, the customer may start walking away. The trader, suddenly realizing his loss, would call the customer back and offer him the goods. But do note that the act of bargaining is not as simple as I am making it sound on paper. It can be time consuming and in order to get a good price, both parties may end up telling each other some fabricated stories as well. The trader may for instance try to justify the price by telling stories of how much he spends on transporting his wares or how scarce his wares are becoming. The customer on the other hand, may come up with stories of some exaggerated economic crisis they are experiencing. In spite of this, the goods definitely get sold to the customer at the end of the day and the trader would always seal the deal by creating an impression s/he did not make any profit by selling his goods at that price!

Due to the uncertainties in the cost of items, potential customers tend to waste their precious time in enquiring about the cost of the item they are interested in purchasing from different places before deciding on where to buy. Moreover, men often leave their wives to do the haggling because women are somehow thought to be better “bargainers” but there are some men who do exceptionally well at bargaining too! I have also come to realize that the customer’s appearance (i.e. the manner in which they are dressed) plays a crucial role in determining the price of the goods. When the customer is well-dressed, the price will automatically be inflated and vice versa. Moreover, prices may be inflated for foreigners (more especially, when they are white) because they are perceived to be richer than the locals. But most traders also have some superstitious beliefs which could be used to the customer’s advantage. It is a common belief among traders that the first customer determines how well business would go for the day. Hence, the first customer is normally treated better and may get away with anything!

But it is worth noting that bargaining does not only apply to sold goods in Ghana; it also goes for services rendered. Taxis in this country do not run on the meter system hence, anyone who goes boarding a taxi must be prepared to bargain. In some cases, instead of stating the price ahead of the trip, the driver would just say: “Oh, you let’s get there first”. Well, as far as I am concerned, that is a bad sign as well. Moreover, if the driver manages to figure out his passenger is new in town; he would simply take the longest route possible in order to justify his fare. The auto mechanics by the road side, welders and tailors/seamstresses as well as local head porters cannot be left out of this discussion. Indeed, Ghana is one country (among others in sub-Saharan Africa) where the customer is always left uncertain at the end of the bargaining ordeal if they have made a good purchase or been cheated.